Dynamic Statuettes: Iris Van Herpen AW19 Haute Couture

Though there was no lack of swoon-worthy, awe-inspiring creations paraded down the catwalks of AW19’s Haute Couture week in Paris, Iris van Herpen, however, attained a new level of miraculously unconventional designs (as if that was possible) with her ‘Hipnosis’ collection. Recruiting the artistic geniuses of American kinetic sculptor Anthony Howe, van Herpen integrated this vastly imaginative art form within her collection… fusing one of the art world’s utmost time-honored traditions with cutting-edge technology, scientific engineering, and (of course) fashion. Like VOGUE RUNWAY described: “Writing about Iris van Herpen, one can find oneself mired in the technicalities of her creations.” Agreed, as we fashion-minded folks already find ourselves too often captivated by the eccentric elements of her designs.

The pair employed the most unusual of materials and technology, producing not only vibrating and shimmering, but mobile works of art… inspiration taken from Howe’s spherical “Omniverse” sculpture, which hung at the heart of the runway at Paris’ Élysée Montmartre. The monument served not only as a gateway for the models and designs, it was also the vision behind the finale dress, ‘Infinity’; each constructed of stainless steel, aluminum and feathers, their revolving wings turning as if grazed by the breeze.

Remarkably, the pieces van Herpen produced without Howe’s input were still kinetic somehow… truly full of life! And, this was no easy task. She achieved this partly by employing suminagashi, an ancient Japanese ink-on-water technique, which fashioned a print of lines, that were then heat bonded to Mylar (or a type of polyester film) and “glitch” laser cut in contrapositive ways. Complicated much?! Still, with the mesmerizing visual display this collection showcased, who needs to understand it?!

What’s more, beyond her quest of runway-couture-chromo-magnificence, Iris van Herpen recently collaborated once again with music superstar, Björk for her latest ever- fantastical show, Cornucopia. ANOTHER reports the all too literally, blossoming “future-orchid” dress is “entirely allied with Björk’s imagination, though distinctly Van Herpen’s, as if working in a kind of symbiosis.”

“I think we are both looking for a sense of freedom in the universe we create. We both have a really multi-disciplinary, multi-sensory approach, of mixing the senses of how you perceive a work of art. That’s what I’m always looking for. To be in the grey area.”

— Iris van Herpen on collaboration with Björk’s, Cornucopia .

With van Herpen, it’s almost more befitting is to think of her work as art pieces… each dress a canvas to the model strutting a masterpiece. The designer’s fashion story thus far fiercely exposes her intricate knack for technique and skill… what will she do next?

Sources:

Moss, Jack. “The Story Behind Björk’s Blooming Iris Van Herpen Gown”. AnOther Mag. 2009 – 2019 AnOther Publishing Ltd.

Phelps, Nicole. “Iris van Herpen Fall 2019 Couture Fashion Show”. Vogue Runway, 2019 Condé Nast.